In the corners of the kitchen, install cabinets at 45 degrees to the adjoining cabinets rather than a "blind" cabinet or "lazy susan". While a 45 degree cabinet has some dead space, it utilizes more space than a "lazy susan", mainly because the cabinet shelves and drawers are square, and a "lazy susan" is round. Put a pantry in the corner between your tall cabinets. It doesn't have to be very big (4' x 4') and being in the corner will utilize all the corner "dead" space. The pantry would have a 2' opening at 45 degrees to the adjoining cabinets. The pantry walls could be 2x4 framed with drywall or 3/4" MDF, but the wall shouldn't be taller than the height of the tall cabinets. This allows for crown molding (if you use it) to also be used on the pantry. Have the pantry open at the top, especially if there is a skylight above, to allow daylight into the pantry. Have shelves from the floor to top of wall. Put a "cabinet door" (same as the rest of your tall cabinets) on the pantry entrance, not a frame door like you'd use in the bedroom. By having a cabinet door the pantry, and the pantry walls at the same height as the cabinets, the pantry looks like a cabinet rather than a drywall opening.
With the tidbits I've discussed above and by keeping the people out of a kitchen, a kitchen size of 16'x10' or 12'x12' is very effective, with tons of storage. Making the kitchen a "traffic corridor" for people to pass through, the kitchen would need to double in size, and you're not gaining storage space with that size because all the openings to the kitchen are eating up what could have been used for cabinets. In regards to lighting, most kitchens have a few main way of lighting (or combination of these) :A. Light in the ceiling fan, B. "Can" lights in the ceiling, C. Under-cabinet lighting (usually puck lights or fluorescent strips) I generally reject all of these lighting concepts. With a light in the ceiling fan, you always have the light at your back, meaning you're casting shadows onto everything you do on the countertop. Can lights are "energy hogs" because they cut large holes in your insulation, and use inefficient incandescent lighting (usually 75 watt). I don't use overhead cabinets so therefore eliminate under-cabinet lighting, which is sometimes expensive
Of course, if you don't create an addition to the house, and just remove or relocate a wall(s), you then have infringed upon a contiguous space and decreased its size, so you have to weigh which option is the best for you. Is it worth giving up the other space to increase the size of the kitchen? In my experience, if you can do without the adjoining space, it is much better to devote that extra space to the kitchen. When you plan to remove or relocate a wall(s), the key factor to determine is, by so doing, will you encounter a load-bearing situation? This occurs when the wall(s) is part of the support system for the structure of the house. Usually a contractor can determine this. If the contractor is uncertain, you will need to have a structural engineer examine the structure to make that determination. If it is non load-bearing, when you are ready to start construction, the contractor can proceed to build out the space per the new plan. If it is a load-bearing issue, your local building authority will require that you retain a structural engineer or an architect to design a structural solution for removing or relocating the wall(s).
Kitchen Sunday , April 08th , 2018 - 13:32:29 PM
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